I mean, I can talk surf with you all day—about swells, or how it was so good last week, or about lucking into a swell in Bali. I'm not saying surfers won't perhaps get even more from it than a non-surfer like me: understand better the sensations, the obsessions, the author describes so well. I could taste the author's fear, I reveled in his happiness and sympathized with his childhood troubles. Every break gets its own character and mood, patiently and delicately dissected; it makes the sport (for want of a better word) intelligible and interesting, and illuminates the spirituality of it too, without ever referencing it as such. -San Diego Union-Tribune by Penguin Press. And they offered to pay my way, so I came. Interspersed among the big waves are thoughtful, often aphoristic reflections, and digressions on much wider themes, which never seem forced or shoe-horned in. ab The book takes you on a very interesting journey through a lot of places. A different topic in that the author is focusing on his addiction issues, but as you mention "the real pleasure was the author's prose, insight and reflection on himself ..." I too loved "Barbarian Days" and AA Gill's memoir came in a close second. Surfing only looks like a sport. Launch dates for broadcast, cable and streaming programs, Up-to-date lists for broadcast, cable and streaming series, Pandemic-proof vs. pandemic-contingent broadcast lineups, Signup for Breaking News Alerts & Newsletters, Get our latest storiesin the feed of your favorite networks. Today, Finnegan s surfing life is undiminished. I couldn't finish Keruoac's "On the Road", I read "Shantaram" and while it made for a rollicking read I couldn't help feeling the author had glamourised some of his more criminal activities. The award-winning book reveals his stories in and out of the waves, his LSD experience on a big day at Honolua Bay, his fights, the racist days, and how he interacted with the world of surfing, in Honolulu, during the 1960s. It’s a total distraction, and you feel like an ass talking about yourself, flogging your book instead of doing real work. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South … Wir nutzen es, um unsere Produktseiten zu verbessern. Finnegan’s writing is meditative and technical about swells, waves, boards, reefs and weather. Because I can’t think of anything else new to say. AA Gill "Pour me a life". It’s not even close.” —Florida Times-Union “An engrossing read, part treatise on wave physics, part thrill ride, part cultural study, with a soupçon of near-death events. Billy Kemper is calling this cavernous monster the wave of his life, The latest escalation in the decades-old dispute over access to the exclusive coast, Channel Islands, …Lost and Firewire now offer mid-length models for mass consumption, Revisiting the mythical MLK Day swell from 7 years ago today, Slater’s ridiculous session in Barbados might never be topped. If I read one more description of a wave, whether it be how it breaks, whether it's a reef break, where the launch pad is, or how tall it is (hint: there is no real way to measure surf height with surfers) I might intentionally drown my set off the coast of Madeira. Zugelassene Drittanbieter verwenden diese Tools auch in Verbindung mit der Anzeige von Werbung durch uns.